Giorno 5 — Quebec City → Riviere du Loup (Bas-Saint-Laurent)
You cross the river and reach Lévis, an attractive Victorian town on the southern bank of the St Lawrence, with magnificent views over Québec.
Following the road that runs east from Lévis towards the Gaspé Peninsula, the most scenic route is Hwy 132, which closely follows the shore of the St Lawrence. The alternative is the Trans-Canada (Hwy 20), which slips quickly past Rivière-du-Loup, effectively marking the start of the Gaspé Peninsula. Hwy 132 winds through flat farming country, between long, narrow cultivated fields, a legacy of the seigneurial system, and passes through a string of quiet villages dominated by large Catholic churches. The three most interesting stopping points along the 180 km between Lévis and Rivière-du-Loup are St-Jean-Port-Joli, St-Roche-des-Aulnaies and the charming Kamouraska, with its distinctive architecture.
The first settlement worth noting along Hwy 132, about 80 km east of Lévis, is St-Jean-Port-Joli, a centre of woodcraft. A traditional Québécois activity, wood carving reached its peak between the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Revived in the second half of the twentieth century, alongside traditional religious themes it broadened to popular and francophile subjects. Worth seeing is the delicate interior of the Église St-Jean Baptiste
14 km east of St-Jean-Port-Joli lies the village of St-Roche-des-Aulnaies, with a magnificent watermill and an old manor house once owned by a wealthy merchant (entrance at extra cost).
40 km further east along Hwy 132 is Kamouraska, a lovely village once the holiday resort of Québec's wealthy residents. The village boasts many examples of the most remarkable architectural feature of the Bas-St-Laurent region, the roof of the houses, which projects outwards to protect the walls from the rain with typically curved eaves. One of the finest examples is the Villa St-Louis, a private house, once the residence of Adolphe Basile-Routhier, the author of the Canadian national anthem. The nets you may notice hanging from poles along the river are used to catch eels.
Rivière-du-Loup marks the start of the Gaspé Peninsula. Rivière-du-Loup is a lively town in Québec, facing the southern shore of the St Lawrence estuary, in the Bas-Saint-Laurent region. An important crossroads, it is the departure point of the ferry that crosses the river towards the Côte-Nord. The town offers a charming centre, a picturesque waterfall in the heart of the settlement and scenic parks overlooking the wide estuary, from which you can enjoy splendid sunsets and from where boat excursions set off for whale watching among the river's islands. The area is also famous for its rural landscapes, farms and terroir products. Nearby stretch parks and trails ideal for hiking. Maritime and welcoming, Rivière-du-Loup is a pleasant stop along the St Lawrence coast, an ideal base for discovering the natural beauty and flavours of the Bas-Saint-Laurent.