Giorno 2 — Salta → San Antonio de Los Cobres → Jujuy → Purmamarca
During the journey from Salta to Purmamarca, you cross the majestic Andes Mountains, with breathtaking panoramic views of canyons, valleys, and snow-capped peaks. Along the way, it is possible to stop in picturesque villages and towns, where you can immerse yourself in the culture and traditions of local communities. A stop at the Quebrada de las Conchas is highly recommended: located roughly halfway between Salta and Purmamarca, this gorge features a series of spectacular rock formations, including the famous Amphitheatre. Before arriving in Purmamarca, you can also stop in Tilcara to visit the Pucará, an ancient fortified settlement built by pre-Columbian Indigenous peoples. San Antonio de los Cobres is a remote town of miners and herders on the Salta altiplano, at 3,775 metres above sea level, on Ruta Nacional 40 and along the route of the Tren a las Nubes. Its name recalls the copper mines (cobres) that gave rise to its founding: today the town lives from the tourist transit tied to the train and from the Kolla communities that inhabit the Puna.
The thin air, the arid colours of the Argentine Puna — yellows, pinks and clay brown — and the intense altiplano light create an alien and fascinating atmosphere. The town is the highest point accessible by road along the route towards the Puna de Atacama and the Chilean border. Jujuy — its full name is San Salvador de Jujuy — is the capital of Argentina's northernmost province, tucked into an Andean basin at 1,259 metres above sea level at the confluence of the Grande and Xibi-Xibi rivers. A town of Spanish colonial foundation, with a historic centre gathered around Plaza Belgrano and a cathedral that preserves a baroque wooden pulpit of rare craftsmanship, Jujuy is above all the logistical gateway for exploring the Quebrada de Humahuaca and the villages of the Puna.
The Cabildo, now home to a history museum, and the government palace decorated with murals by indigenous artist Jorge Virgilio Burucuá are two stops in the centre. Local gastronomy reflects proximity to Bolivia and Peru: humitas, tamales and locro are common dishes in the central markets. Jujuy is well served by the international Gobernador Horacio Guzmán airport. Purmamarca is a small adobe village in the Quebrada de Humahuaca, the Andean valley of north-western Argentina declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003. At 2,324 metres above sea level, the village clusters around a colonial square shaded by an ancient algarrobo tree, with the seventeenth-century church of Santa Rosa de Lima looking towards the Cerro de los Siete Colores — the hill of seven colours, the symbol of the village and of the Quebrada itself.
The colours of the Cerro are the result of millions of years of superimposed geological deposits: pink, purple, orange, green, ochre yellow and brick red alternate in horizontal bands that shift in tone throughout the day. The craft market under the square's arcades offers textiles, ceramics and jewellery from the Kolla indigenous communities. Purmamarca is also the starting point for the Cuesta de Lipán, the plateau road that climbs towards the Puna and the Salina Grande, the great salt flat at 3,400 metres.