On the road nel grande nord del Cile

Arica sits at the far north of Chile, just a few kilometres from the Peruvian border, wedged between the Pacific and the cliffs of the Atacama desert in a mild climate year-round that earns it the title of «the city of eternal spring». The Morro de Arica, a rocky promontory rising 110 metres above the sea, is the city's symbol and home to the Museo de las Armas, with relics from the Battle of the Morro in 1880. The Catedral de San Marcos, designed by Gustave Eiffel and prefabricated in Paris in 1875, is the historic centre's main attraction. The beaches of El Laucho and La Lisera offer calm waters for swimming, while the waves of Playa Chinchorro and Corazones attract surfers from across the Pacific. Arica is the departure point for Lauca National Park on the Andean plateau at over 4,500 metres, with the Parinacota volcano, the Cotacotani lagoons and Lago Chungará, one of the most beautiful high-altitude lakes in the world.

The Codpa Valley is a green oasis in the middle of the Atacama desert, in the Arica y Parinacota region, where a small river has allowed the survival of an Aymara village surrounded by vineyards, orchards and terraces cultivated using pre-Columbian techniques. The village of Codpa, with its colonial church and dusty streets, is a microcosm of Andean rural life virtually unchanged over time. The valley produces the País grape used to make local artisan pisco, and a visit to the Pisquería Codpa winery is an authentic experience. The landscape of ochre canyons, intense blue sky and green olive groves holds a quiet, understated beauty. An ideal retreat for those seeking authenticity far from mass tourism.

Putre is a small Andean village in the Arica y Parinacota region, at 3,500 metres above sea level at the foot of the Taapaca volcano, surrounded by a landscape of puya, queñoa and wild llamas. The gateway to Lauca National Park and the Reserva Nacional Las Vicuñas, it is the logistical base for acclimatising to altitude before ascending to the Andean plateau where the Cotacotani lakes, Lago Chungará and the Parinacota volcano at nearly 6,400 metres are found. The village retains an authentic Aymara indigenous atmosphere, with dirt streets, low stone houses and a seventeenth-century colonial church. The night sky at this altitude, free from light pollution, is extraordinarily clear. An ideal stop for those travelling to the Andean plateau of northern Chile.